13 August 2015 Lasă un comentariu
Canon of taste by Jill Neimark
Shields and Roberts are not alone. There is a growing global movement to establish a culinary canon and to restore the actual local ingredients that composed it. Why shouldn’t there be a canon of taste, like other canons of our civilisation, those of literature, art, music, architecture, religion and science? We have a global palate now, and with that, a new willingness to cross-pollinate and revivify regional foodways – and even ways of staging food at the table.
Even in the most unassuming places, artisanal traditions are being newly recreated: ‘I just came from Norwalk, Iowa, out in the middle of nowhere, and there was this incredible charcuterie,’ says the chef Dan Barber, founder of the internationally acclaimed Blue Hill restaurant in New York. The charcuterie, La Quercia, creates artisan-cured meats by hand from local, acorn-fed pork, and has become world-renowned.